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For the Tamil translation of Blog posts done by the author from her English blog, Please go to the following link.
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Thursday 26 April 2018

Cambridge of South India


My college established in the small, yet cultured, town of Kumbakonam in 1854 was the oldest and prestigious one around the locality and well known as 'The Cambridge of South India' for two reasons.
Just as Cambridge is sitting  on the river Cam, the  Kumbakonam college took  its roots on the banks of river Kaveri. It followed Cambridge's  footsteps in holding the festivity of regatta annually.
Just as Cambridge is one among the premier educational institution in UK this institution too had praise worthy and renowned teachers like the 'grandfather of Tamil literature' Mr. U. V. Swaminatha Ayer and students who became internationally famous, like the  mathematics genius Mr. Ramanujam.
Our college was a spacious one with big verandahs and well ventilated class rooms. But the benevolent management bent upon providing  more oxygen  to the student's brain activity along with  the cool breeze from river Kaveri had fixed huge cloth fans covering the width of the room called 'punkhas' and appointed a person called 'punkawalla' to operate the system by pulling it with the ropes attached! And whenever professors tend to put the students into deep slumber the somber 'punkawalla' provided the needed entertainment for an hour with his nodding sleepy head yet engaged thoroughly in his work!
But this was the story passed on by our progenitors since by the time I went to college I just saw the remnants of the old system, dirty old torn punkhas in the middle of the room and the management decided that the cool breeze from mother Kaveri was more than enough for our brain activity and installing the electric  fans was immaterial!
In the era of minimal transportation the students usually walked the mile to their respective educational institutions and I  was no exception. Even though the college sojourn was similar to that of  school there was a bit of a variation, a more romantic one at that ! There was a walk  bridge over river Kaveri  connecting the road to our college. The cool breeze of  this stretch indeed had the efficacy to take away the tiredness of the long road walks! Hugh trees on the college side would perpetually  play with the flowing waters making me ache for a seat amongst them.
You may wonder  what was the  problem in sitting there and why should I ache for it? After all it was your own college!
I beg to differ.... Our existence as girls in that coeducation college at the end of fifties was a very different one and it would be hard to believe our restricted existence by the modern day college folks.
While our college campus was a  huge one we girls were confined to the 'two room prison' very close to the principal's office.  We were not allowed even to participate on the weekly flag hoisting and our salutes to mother India travelled from the verandah of our rooms!
And there was another adjacent room for  the odd lady lecturers who occasionally got transferred and whose only aim during this phase of their life  was to get a transfer to another place as soon as possible and were capable of achieving their goal by hook or crook!
While the boys enjoyed  the  cool shades of the trees on the river bank to deliberate on political situation, to gossip  and for  a few scholastic ones to study we the outcast group were cocooned inside the 'two room prison'! The exception to this rule was the regatta day. Like Cambridge our college too excelled in this sports and on this festive day the management allowed  the girls to gather and enjoy the water sports on the shades of the trees whose lower branches were in perpetual embrace with the Kaveri waters!
While there were facilities for the boys to participate in various games including the prestigious lawn tennis  and a rowing  club with a tank for beginners and practitioners, we the lesser beings were destined to walk on the bridge over river Kaveri as soon as the classes were over!
If this was the story on the outside  precincts,  the class room were even more claustrophobic. In those days it was customary to move to different classes after every hour of lecture. It was a good system which allowed one  to relax and stretch before dealing with a new lesson. While the boys entered the classes and seated themselves freely and comfortably the girls had to wait outside till the lecturer entered the class. Our seating arrangement was restricted to the first two rows closer to the door. And it was compulsory to leave two more rows behind us for the boys to seat themselves. And after the lecture hour  it was obligatory on the part of the lecturer  to wait in the class till we girls moved out!
The election process for the college president and various other posts for the year was a properly fought one and by default a  male bastion, capable of ending in big squabbles and quarrels similar to the political ones! During this period the fathers took charge of protecting their girl child and lead her through the vulnerable bridge where the boys vied with one another with trays of scented roses and bit notices trying to attract the attention of all and sundry and especially the girls. Like the new brides of the olden days the paternal instinct made sure the that their girls heads were properly bent till they reached their 'two room prison'.
If this was status in an educational institution the one which was supposed to  open up our mind we could gauge the level of  social conditioning in the households.
It was customary for the girls to go to the college in  cluster if they lived in the same street and we were no exception. The mother of one of the street mate was paranoid about sending her girl child to the college. She made sure that her dressing was indeed more like a purdah rather than a proper sari for a college going girl, and a look at her would remind one  of the  medieval Victorian skirt bulging away on all sides! Her daily dose of advice consisted of bent head, nil eye contact, no talk with the other sex and return back on time with girls! And I was elected as the de facto guardian angel to monitor her behaviour.  If on a particular day she didn't return from the college along with me she would be hysterical cursing the whole college system in not allowing the girls to be back home on time. Her extreme worries lead her into health problems. In that fatherless household the forward thinking brother's efforts to give a good education to his younger sister became futile.  Irrespective of the ranting from his sister, the man was compelled to arrange for her marriage but appeased his conscience by choosing a  highly qualified match! 
 I would have never faced such a problem as my parents especially my mother was a revolutionary of her era bent upon giving equal education to her girl children too!!
Like our nose getting adjusted to bad smell in the course of time, we in our checkered coeducation life started enjoying our existence in spite this limited freedom. The exchange of variety of heady scented jasmines on a daily basis and double tiffin boxes on days  goodies were prepared at home perked up our camaraderie and we slowly became a very close knit gang to the extent we planned for a trip to the city of Madras, the dream land of every Tamilian!
And it all happened because of our political science lecturer, whom we nick named as 'rain man'. Instead of using his allotted podium this man had the notion that being closer to the students and  raining his wisdom oozing saliva along with his lectures was the proper way of propagating knowledge and we the girl students occupying the compulsory front rows were his victims while the boys found their escape routes at the back benches!  Yet he was a dedicated man, a great fan of Queen Elizabeth the second. We came to know of this interesting facet when he was dealing with the unwritten Constitution of the English. On that particular day he passed on the information that the queen was making a three day visit to Madras and that we should be lucky and blessed to have a 'darshan' of his 'goddess'! Enchanted by his assertive declaration we decided on a trip to Madras indifferent to the scolding from various quarters of the household! And our justification was that this visit was an imperative one in our   learning curve in political science!!
This successful execution without the knowledge or support from our  classmates of the other sex creating respect and reverence on  our capability.
Another incident which happened  during the college days left an indelible mark in our life!  There was a birth in the family of one of our friends and her sister had  delivered a baby boy. In the family of four sisters the boy baby doubled the happiness and for the naming ceremony she invited all of us for lunch. She suggested that we could come home during the lunch interval and return back for the next hour of lecture. On that appointed day as the gong went off we crossed the bridge carrying a gift for the baby. As we entered the house there was a shouting" Don't touch... don't touch..... go away! We were taken aback and  retreated our steps  back to the front door. But  our friend came running saying "Granny is bit orthodox.  you should have gone on the side she had dried her clothes." After a thorough wash we entered a room.
"Can we see the baby?" we thought we would give the gift and wish the baby before the lunch.
"The baby is sleeping . Can you give it to me please? Come and have your lunch. You have to go back to the class" She literally hurried us!
It was indeed a sumptuous vegetarian feast  except that we felt something was amiss. No one entered our room to serve  or wish us. If only this royal feast was in my place my mother would have made it a grand occasion of it with her friendly gesture.
"All the fingers are not equal." I philosophised 
As we thanked our friend and bade good bye a booming voice from inside said "Is the cow dung ready? Clean the place at once."
We ran out of the house and  our innards were revolting to transfer its festive content into a bitter vomit to pour out un to the street.
The Brahminical  orthodoxy  was at its zenith and especially in a place where majority belonged to that faction and unknowingly we became the victims of this humiliation and indeed made a haunting impression.
 Some years back we were there in the place. The beautiful Kaveri river had turned to a receptacle of plastic waste with small drains from the nearby eateries joining the gang! The morning glory bushes  coated with dust the with the  fast moving transportation added to the misery of the scenario!
The orthodox street where we had our life lesson had  modified itself into offices and shops and people roamed freely into that sanctum sanctorum sans the dread of humiliation!
While on one hand, I was indeed elated by this metamorphosis, on another count my heart ached for the beauty and serenity of the old days.